EDT, EDP or extrait: what is the difference?
Cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, parfum and extrait differ in how much perfume oil they hold. What that changes, what it does not, and which to sample first.
EDT, EDP or extrait: what is the difference? It is the share of perfume oil in the liquid. Cologne holds the least, then eau de toilette, then eau de parfum, then parfum or extrait, which hold the most. The rest is alcohol, with a little water. There is no single worldwide standard for the exact amounts, and houses use the words in their own way, so treat them as a ladder, not a measurement. The ladder tells you roughly how rich a perfume is likely to feel, and it does not tell you whether you will like it.
The ladder, from light to rich
Cologne is the lightest, often fresh and short-lived on skin. Jo Malone English Pear and Freesia is a Cologne recorded with williams pear on top, freesia in the heart and patchouli in the base, tagged light.
Eau de toilette is the next step: lighter than an eau de parfum, popular for warm weather and daytime. Diptyque Eau des Sens is an Eau de Toilette recorded with orange blossom, angelica root, patchouli and juniper berry.
Eau de parfum is the common middle. Frederic Malle French Lover is an Eau de Parfum recorded with pimiento, angelica and juniper on top and patchouli, vetiver and frankincense in the base.
Extrait de parfum and parfum are the richest. Nishane Ani X is an Extrait de Parfum recorded with bergamot, lemon, watery notes, honeydew melon, cardamom, blue ginger and pink pepper on top, lavender, sage, green apple, blackcurrant, rose and patchouli in the heart and cedarwood, cashmere wood, vanilla, ambergris, white musk and sandalwood in the base.
Fragrance du Bois Lucius is a Parfum recorded with bergamot, mandarin and pink pepper on top, cedarwood and orange flower in the heart and tonka, vetiver and dry amber in the base.
What concentration changes
A higher concentration usually means a richer, rounder feel and a scent that sits closer to the skin, with the base more prominent. A lower one tends to feel brighter and more airy, with the top notes more present. That is a tendency, not a rule. The way a perfume is built matters as much as how much oil it holds, which is why two perfumes of the same concentration can feel completely different.
What it does not decide
Concentration does not decide quality, and it does not tell you how long a perfume will last on your skin. It also does not mean that a stronger one is for evenings and a lighter one for days, though many people use them that way. For the reasons a scent behaves differently from person to person, read why a perfume smells different on your skin.
Same name, different version
Many houses release one perfume in several concentrations, and each can be built differently. They share a name, not a formula. That is why the concentration is part of the label on every vial we fill, and why the sample pages say which version you are getting. If you cannot decide between two versions, sample both; which sample size helps you pick the size. You can browse each rung of the ladder: eau de toilette, eau de parfum, extrait de parfum, parfum and cologne.
A simple way to compare two versions
If a perfume exists in two concentrations, wear one on each arm on the same day. Smell both at the start, again once they have settled, and once more later in the day. Write down which feels richer, which sits closer to the skin and which you would reach for first. The differences are usually clearer than the labels suggest, and sometimes the lighter version turns out to be the one you prefer. If only one appeals, you have saved yourself from buying the wrong one, which is exactly what a sample is for.
Which to sample first
Start with the version you can see yourself buying. If you want something for every day and for warm weather, an eau de toilette or cologne is the natural start. If you want depth and presence, begin with the eau de parfum or the extrait. How to apply a rich version is covered in how to apply extrait de parfum. The testing routine in how to test perfume on your skin works for any concentration. The glossary has the terms in short, and the FAQ answers ordering questions.
FAQ
Is an extrait always stronger than an eau de parfum?
Usually it holds more perfume oil, but strength depends on the formula. An extrait can sit close to the skin, and an eau de parfum can project widely.
Is a higher concentration better?
No. It is a different version of a perfume, and many people prefer the lighter, brighter feel of an eau de toilette or cologne. The right one is the one you enjoy wearing.
Which should I sample first?
The version you intend to buy. If a perfume exists in two concentrations, sample the one you can picture wearing every day, then compare the other.
